When the world feels like it’s in chaos mode it may seem impossible to slow down, but when it comes to travel there’s an option that offers just that: the train.
During our annual holiday trip to Seattle from Los Angeles, we did six different family visits while also working remotely. We needed one-on-one quality family time getting there and back— a vacation from our “vacation.”
Our family was surprised by our choice of transportation. We were often asked why not drive or fly? Our answer? We’ve done THE drive before, complete with bloodshot eyes and a carsick kiddo, even stopping one time at the Great Wolf Lodge (which is Vegas for kids). We came home fried. It took days for the smell to leave our car. We also opted out of flying due to the extreme shortage of air traffic controllers, not to mention SeaTac during the holidays, with a kiddo, can be rough: Hours of waiting, delays, trying to keep a 4-year-old in a TSA line.
Not to mention, we’d ridden the rails before and knew that Amtrak’s Coast Starlight would provide respite and an oasis from the overstimulation of the holidays.
Coast Starlight view long stretches of the Pacific Ocean from the train cars. (Image: Amtrak)
Which room and what did it cost?
When planning for our train trip down the Pacific coast we opted for a private room. Our kid is a wanderer, so doors with locks helped avoid an emergency intercom shout: “Toddler on the loose!” To stretch funds, we purchased a coach seat for my husband and a “roomette” for the kiddo and me (assume $1,1000 one way). My husband was with us during the day but he slept in his coach seat. Word to the wise: The top bunk is close to the ceiling, a tad claustrophobic. My daughter and I shared the bottom bunk, which was cozy. She stayed up a little later than normal looking out the window at the stars and towns in an activity that we called, “watching the world go by.”
On the way back we reserved the family room (using 66,000 Amtrak points but it would have cost around $1,300 one way) which sleeps four comfortably with four bunks plus windows on both sides enabling you to see the view from both sides of the train. During our sold-out train ride we were able to use some of the bunk space for bags. Bag allowance is where trains beat out planes! All passengers are allowed one personal item (25 pounds) and two additional bags (50 pounds).
There are options for all budgets: coach for one adult and one child is $189 one-way (kids 2-12 are half off, under 2 are free). Meals for coach seats are not included, but you do have access to booking a meal in the dining car ($20-$45 per person) or getting food in the cafe car ($3-$9). Pro tip: To save money, we used points from Amtrak’s credit card. We waited until the signing bonus was doubled from its standard 20,000 points. This promotion happens a couple times a year and is announced over Amtrak social media.
About that shower
There are extra bathrooms available for private rooms, plus showers.
However, the three times we’ve traveled by train, I was only successfully able to take a shower once as there were plumbing issues. If you choose to use the shower I recommend packing flip flops.
But you can also just grab a hat, some dry shampoo and call it good! You’re riding the rails!
Snapping photos during a meal (Image: Jen Saunderson)
Views and Entertainment
The observation deck is also a wonderful place to take in the sights and hear from occasional speakers about the history of a region. Pro-tip: Not enough room in the busy observation deck? There are large windows in the cafe car and it’s less crowded.
Be sure to exercise during the longer stretch breaks at select stops along the way.
This is important: Amtrak does not offer Wi-Fi so it’s important to be prepared for alternate ways to entertain lil’ ones. Before our trip my daughter found activity books related to her favorite characters (Lots of Bluey!), coloring books and scratch art paper books. She’d been obsessed with slumber parties so we downloaded a few movies for her iPad, got some snacks from the cafe car and declared the evening a family slumber party!
What’s on the menu
The kids’ menu includes mac-and-cheese, hot dogs, and grilled cheese, all served with potato chips. Grab some veggies from the cafe car to provide variety. The Amtrak signature French toast was our kid’s favorite. Adult options are fancier (think Atlantic salmon in lobster sauce).
Amtrak service is impeccable and staff are particularly great with kids. The waiter’s improv upon hearing our daughter’s Coca Cola for breakfast order, and seeing my face, was perfect: “Sorry lil’ one, but the Coca Cola is not ready until lunch.”
And that’s a good reason to have $40-$50 cash on hand for tips. There are no ATMs available at the stops.
One mom’s obsession
A word to the wise. Definitely do dessert.
My daughter was obsessed with the butter cake, which is available at lunch. For me, one of my biggest loves on this ride is the chocolate spoon cake. It is possibly the most decadent chocolate dessert that I’ve ever experienced.
I dream of this cake. I’ve stalked this cake online like an ex boyfriend. I pray it is never removed from their menu.
Sound asleep on the midnight train (Image: Jen Saunderson)
Insure your trip
The train is like a cruise ship on land, but a cruise ship from the early 1900s. No Leo or icebergs, just relaxation. But take my advice: get the travel insurance (we paid $36 for family room coverage).
Rain and flooding on the tracks required a reroute back to Sacramento and an insurance-covered overnight stay in a hotel. It added another 14 hours of travel, but also provided an extra night in a new town, more time together as a family, more beautiful views and more obsessing over the chocolate cake!
Good to know
Trip length: 35 hours one way
Cost: Approximately $2,400 round trip
Getting there: Arrive at the station 30 minutes before departure. Checking bags? One hour early.
Ideal kid age range: All ages.
Stroller-friendly: Ditch the stroller and let kids ride the luggage.
Reality hit: Zero Wi-Fi. Phone tethering is limited in rural areas. Bring analog fun.
