Seattle's Child

Your guide to a kid-friendly city

The Parthenon Sculptures in the British Museum's collection. (Image: Caroline JiaYing Grygiel)

London with Kids: A surprisingly affordable family trip

Free attractions, easy transit and family-friendly stays

Lots of Seattle families head to Hawaii on spring break, but I priced it out and realized it was cheaper to go to London. So instead of getting sand up our swimsuits, we hopped across the pond and got 2,000 years of history and culture.

London is a terrific city for kids, and you really can do it on the cheap. There’s so much to see and do, and much of it is blissfully free. We love London because it’s easy and it’s iconic. The city feels just like a movie set, with working red double-decker buses and guards in bearskin hats. There’s no language barrier (for the most part), the streets are clean, and public transportation is a breeze.

Tower Bridge straddles the River Thames. The walled castle is the Tower of London. (Image: Caroline JiaYing Grygiel)

Getting There (and Around)

You need a United Kingdom Electronic Travel Authorization to enter (about $13 per person). Apply online; mine was approved within minutes. British Airways, Delta, and Virgin Atlantic all fly nonstop from SeaTac to Heathrow. We took British Airways, which flies direct to London twice a day, and arrived 9.5 hours later.

London has stellar public transportation. The Underground, which locals call the Tube, is a super-efficient way to get around town. Adults tap in and out with a credit card or phone. Children under 11 travel free; just walk through the wider turnstile with an adult. Kids 11 to 15 get half-price fares: go to any Tube station, buy an Oyster card (£7) and ask the staff to apply the young visitor discount.

The London Underground is a cheap and efficient way to get around. (Image: Caroline JiaYing Grygiel)

Where We Stayed

We stayed in an aparthotel in Bayswater, which felt like a tiny studio apartment with a front desk. For a family, it hit a sweet spot: more space than a traditional hotel room, but still with the ease of check-in, luggage storage, and help when we needed it.

Bayswater is a sleepy, leafy neighborhood that ended up being perfect with kids. It’s just a 10-minute walk to the Princess Diana Memorial Playground in Hyde Park, and close to multiple Tube lines, which made getting around easy.

Other options to consider:

  • $: Budget hotels and smaller guesthouses
  • $$: Premier Inn (a reliable, family-friendly UK chain)
  • $$$: Aparthotels or larger family suites in central neighborhoods

London’s red telephone booths are iconic British symbols. (Image: Caroline JiaYing Grygiel)

Museums

All the major museums are free, just like in Washington, D.C. In the posh Kensington neighborhood, three spectacular museums sit side by side: the Natural History Museum, the Science Museum and the Victoria and Albert Museum. You’ll lose your mind if you try to hit all three in one day, so pace yourself. Natural History has the gorgeous Hintze Hall and a robotic T. rex; the Science Museum has hands-on exhibits; and the V&A has the most devastating gift shop.

Art museums with children? Take a wander (but make it quick!) through the National Gallery and the National Portrait Gallery. The Tate Modern has space to roam, then cross Millenium Bridge, which makes a cameo in “Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince”.

No London trip is complete without a visit to the British Museum, where you can see the Rosetta Stone and the Parthenon sculptures. If you can squeeze in a daytrip, take the riverbus (called Uber Boat) to Greenwich, home of the Prime Meridian. Two more free museums here: the Maritime Museum, the world’s largest museum dedicated to seafaring, and the Queen’s House, a luxurious villa originally built for the wife of James I.

London’s Tate Modern is dedicated to modern and contemporary art. (Image: Caroline JiaYing Grygiel)

Iconic Attractions

The iconic attractions are also free. Arrive early to snag a good spot to watch the Changing of the Guard in front of Buckingham Palace. The 350-acre Hyde Park could fill an entire day, especially with the Princess Diana Memorial Playground in the northwest corner.

Westminster Abbey is free to visit for Evensong, which is a 45-minute service of sung prayers. You won’t get to wander around the interior as a tourist, but you’ll experience the church as it was meant to be. Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament are next door; visitors are welcome to pop in and watch debates and committee hearings.

My kids love sky-high observatories, but I don’t love paying sky-high admission. We skipped the Shard and the London Eye for the excellent free views at Horizon 22 and Sky Garden. See if you can spot the skyscrapers with funny nicknames, like the Gherkin, the Walkie Talkie, and the Cheese Grater.

Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace. (Image: Caroline JiaYing Grygiel)

Catch a Show on a Budget

Shows in the West End cost a fraction of what you’d pay on Broadway. Hop on a cheap flight, see a couple of shows, and you’d still come out ahead of what you would have spent in New York. The cheapest seats at “The Lion King”, for example, are $137 on Broadway but $87 in London’s West End.

Where to Eat

Picnics save time and money. We didn’t eat out a single meal during our trip. Getting take-out and groceries is the way to go. I actually spent less on food in London than I do in Seattle.

Little supermarkets are on every corner in London. Tesco and Sainsbury’s are on the cheaper end; Waitrose and M&S are more like Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods. If you want to take advantage of the famous Tesco meal deal (a sandwich, a drink, and a snack for £3.85), ask the person behind you in line to scan their loyalty card. You get the discount, they get the points.

London is entirely cashless. I brought some pounds with me just in case, and never touched it. Guess we’ll just have to come back again.

Meat pies at Borough Market a historic market in central London. (Image: Caroline JiaYing Grygiel)

What Surprised Me

The cleanliness stood out immediately — streets and public spaces are noticeably well-kept. And Chinatown was vibrant, busy and absolutely worth a wander, especially if your kids need a change of pace from museums and monuments.

Know Before You Go

  • Best Time to Visit: The seasons are exactly like Seattle’s.
  • Ideal Trip Length: One day or 100 days, it doesn’t matter because you’ll never see it all.
  • Getting There: Nonstop flights from SeaTac.
  • Jet lag: Always get on the local time immediately, so you don’t have jet lag.
  • Ideal Kid Age Range: All ages.
  • Stroller-friendly: Elevators to the Tube aren’t easy to find.
  • Getting Around: The public transportation is so fun. Take the subway, take the double-decker buses, take a river bus.
  • Language/Currency: English/pounds
  • Parent Pro Tips: Book tickets in advance unless you enjoy spending your vacation waiting in line.

About the Author

Caroline JiaYing Grygiel

Caroline JiaYing Grygiel is a photographer and writer in Seattle. Find her on Instagram @photoj.seattle and at photoj.net.